My review on the new Biologique Recherche Lotion P50

I bought the Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 

on my last trip to Paris. 

Lotion P50T is a new version of Lotion P50 that has a slightly higher pH level. 

• Alpha-hydroxy acids: Specifically, lactic acid (derived from milk sugars) and citric acid (from lemons and oranges). The activity level of AHAs can vary, depending on how concentrated they are and the pH of the formula. In Biologique Recherche products, the molecules have a high acid ratio and low salt—which means they are both exfoliating and hydrating.

• Cider vinegar: Created from fermented apples, cider vinegar contains citric and malic acids. Thanks to its high tannin content, it also has purifying and astringent properties.

• Beta-hydroxy acid: Salicylic acid is naturally synthesized by certain plants, such as willow, and has an anti-inflammatory effect. Compared to AHAs, it penetrates the pores more easily in order to dissolve dead cells that may be causing obstructions. 

• Poly-hydroxy acid: Gluconolactone is present in honey and fruit juices. It's a less penetrative exfoliant than AHAs, but also less irritating.

• Niacinamide: My favourite ingredient for fading skin pigmentation also has an anti-inflammatory effect that can help with acne. 

• Horseradish, burdock and capsicum extracts: The horseradish has antibacterial properties and can help regulate sebum production. Capsicum is purifying and antiseptic, while burdock is moisturizing, healing and calming. Burdock also has the unique ability to balance combination skin, hydrating dry zones while purifying and regulating oily areas.

• Magnesium chloride: It has healing, antiseptic and sebum-regulating qualities that can hep with acne and eczema.

• Arnica extract: It has a soothing, protective and anti-inflammatory action.

• Natural moisturizing factors: These are ingredients, such as urea, lactates and sugars, that mimic the substances found in healthy skin.

THE FULL INGREDIENTS LIST FOR THE LOTION P50T: 

Ingredients (Lotion P50T): Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Sodium Gluconate, Niacinamide, Propylene Glycol, Lactic Acid, Magnesium Chloride, Vinegar (Acetum), Citric Acid, Cochlearia Armoracia (Horseradish) Root Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract, Serine, Urea, Allantoin, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Salicylate, Sodium Benzoate, TEA-Lactate, Sorbitol.

Finally the Phenol was removed in the new lotion!

The phenol-free version of the original formula, targeted at normal to oily, thick skin. This info's not from the brand, but I understand it has a concentration of 12.85 percent AHA.

I followed this direction on how to use:

Step 1: If you're new to acids, start by dampening a cotton pad with a bit of water.  The water will dilute the acid until you become accustomed to it. After the first week, you can use Lotion P50T on dry cotton pads.

Step 2: After washing your face, apply a few drops of Lotion P50T to the pad, and swipe it across your face, neck and décollatage. 

Step 3: If you find it too strong, you can spray your skin with a face mist after a few moments, to neutralize the acid. Otherwise, simply leave it on your skin and continue with the rest of your regimen.

Do this twice a day, on bare skin after cleansing (and before moisturizing). 

And don't forget to use sun protection, as AHAs increase sun sensitivity.

The first thing I noticed is that Lotion P50T feels less "tingly" on the skin. Even though it has the same exfoliating ingredients, it's unfortunately not as strong.

My skin was red for an hour following application and got really dry. 

I like the ingredient but not a fan of UREA. 

Some of the benefits you can expect (and that I have experienced myself):

• Brighter, more even skin tone
• Fewer acne breakouts
• Less oil production
• Gradual reduction in pore size
• Fading of pigmentation
• Softened appearance of fine lines

Where to buy it:

• One2One Studio in Toronto
• La Chambre des Dames in Montreal
• Little Spa in Vancouver
• Rescue Spa in USA
• Danydiop Cosmetics Europe

WHY LACTIC ACID IS SO GOOD FOR YOUR SKIN?

Derived from milk, fruit, vegetables and other plants, Lactic Acid is one of the most popular Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) found in anti-acne and anti-aging products and chemicals peels. 

Like other AHAs, Lactic Acid has been known to help reduce acne breakouts and the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and other signs of aging. 

What differentiates it from others, however, is its reputation. Noticeably gentler than Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid is effective in acne-prone, dry and mature skin types without irritating the skin (some formulations are even gentle enough for rosacea).

It’s hardly a recent discovery though; goat’s milk was used as an ancient lactic acid spa treatment, and legend has it that Cleopatra soaked in milk baths sprinkled in with rose petals.

What does it do to your skin:

• Hydrates complexion;
• Increases natural barrier lipids in skin’s outer layers to help prevent skin’s natural oils and water from escaping;
• Helps stimulate collagen production;
• Encourages outermost layer to shed quicker to reveal healthier, newer skin;
• Helps promote cell turnover;
• Softens the skin.

Why it is so good"

It exfoliates without irritating the skin the way a traditional granular scrub would. It’s an anti-acne and anti-aging ingredient all in one, keeping skin in check and leaving it baby smooth to the touch.

Lactic Acid is the perfect stepping stone from which you can work your way up to a stronger AHA like Glycolic Acid; it’s also a great way to help prepare your skin for a chemical peel.

What You Should Know

Like all AHAs, Lactic Acid increases the skin’s sensitivity to the sun. (AHAs work to slough off the outermost layer of skin, leaving this new layer vulnerable to UV rays.) Be sure to take extra care by using a broad spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 every day.

I'm Fabulous Cosmetics has this amazing all natural skin peel with all natural ingredients and lactic acid in it. The Bio Gorgeous Peel smell so wonderful, very fruity and feels amazing on your skin. It is so easy to apply because there is no mixing and you can use it at home when your skin needs it the most. Anis call it her rescue peel. "you can use it before an event to refresh your skin before makeup for a glowing, super smooth look".

The BIO GORGEOUS PEEL

FAST-ACTING

Within minutes. Skin restoration begins.

- Enlarged pores become virtually invisible after the first treatment
- Skin lifting effect
- Control sebum output
- Lift and tighten skin
- Refine and smoothen skin appearance

Exfoliating, boosting collagen production and enhancing clarity. Clogged pores, toxic buildup, blemishes, and inflammation.  

Super powerful anti-oxidants, natural botanicals and unique seaweed plants, natural acid, work to give skin a glowing, radiant complexion. 

Uncover a luminosity you thought gone forever. Based on a multidimensional approach to skin brightening and even toning. 

Our powerful ingredients help interrupt melanogenesis (the biochemical process that causes hyperpigmentation) before, during and after color formation.

• Multi-cellular exfoliation 
increases epidermal and dermal moisture levels. 
• Stimulates collagen and elastin fibroblasts. 
• Helps repair and revitalize mature and sun-damaged skin and minimizes lines and wrinkles. 
• Help anti-aging serum and cream actives penetrate deeper and faster into your skin. 
• Very safe to use and excellent for Acne. 
• Great also if you are a first-time peel user. 

Enzymes like alpha hydroxy acids help the skin exfoliated.  

AHA’s loosen the top layer of dead cells a primarily composed of keratin, while on the other hand enzymes dissolve the keratinized layer. 

Papaya and pineapple are great sources of proteolytic (protein dissolving) plant enzymes. This extract is formulated to enhance the enzyme properties of the separate extracts to create the perfect exfoliating and renewing blend.

The protein-dissolving enzyme papain can only be found in papayas. Papain is at its highest level just before the papaya ripens, while it is still green. 

The powerful papain enzyme dissolves dead and damaged skin cells. Papaya is great for blemishes, mature skin, dandruff, large pores, and sunspots. 

Some research shows that the enzyme papain is useful as an exfoliant where excess keloids have formed during wound healing. 

Pineapple contains the enzyme bromelain and alpha hydroxy acids (malic acid; citric acid; tartaric acid; glycolic acid).

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Dermaplaning is a safe and effective procedure for exfoliating the epidermis and ridding skin of vellus hair (peach fuzz).

Dermaplaning is a safe and effective procedure for exfoliating the epidermis and ridding skin of vellus hair (peach fuzz). The result of Dermaplaning is radiant soft skin over which makeup glides on smoothly. You'll find your makeup looking far less caked and more natural looking.

• Removes dead skin and peach fuzz
• Softens skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines
• Helps serums and peels penetrate more effectively!

• Our dermaplaning tool removes dead skin and peach fuzz
• Creates a smoother, more even complexion
• Softens fine lines
• Makeup applies more smoothly
• Removes dead skin and debris
• Increases product penetration

Removing the peach fuzz is beneficial since the fine hairs trap debris and oils and give skin a dull look. After dermaplaning, skin care products and treatments perform much more efficiently since they can penetrate the skin more easily. Your makeup goes on smoother as well!

It's the perfect procedure to begin stacking other treatments, like TCA Multi Acid Face Peel, Serums, and MicroRoller.

HOW TO USE A DERMAPLANING TOOL

CLEANSE: Cleanse and dry skin thoroughly.

RESURFACE: Beginning at the top of the cheekbone near the hairline, hold your skin taut and gently glide the dermaplaning tool towards the nose using short strokes. Continue until you have resurfaced the entire cheek and jaw. Repeat light strokes on the chin, above the lips, and on the forehead. Do not use on eyelids, eyebrows, hairlines, sides of nose, or lips. DO NOT go to any facial area more than once.

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The difference Between Jessner & TCA Peels

Chemical peels are used to treat different skin problems such as acne, sun spots, fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone and texture. They involve the use of chemicals such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid, Jessner's solution, trichloroacetic acid (TCA) and phenol. 

The chemical is applied to your skin and then removed after some time. The top layer of your skin peels off as a result, revealing newer, more youthful-looking skin. TCA and Jessner peels are two popular types of chemical peels.

BUY TCA PEEL IN BULK

TCA peels are available in different strengths or concentrations. The stronger the solution is, the deeper it penetrates the different layers of your skin. Superficial peels are done with 10 to 20 percent and 25 to 35 percent TCA; medium-depth peels are done with 40 to 50 percent TCA, and a deep peel results from the use of greater than 50 percent TCA. According to "The Color Atlas of Chemical Peels," the use of TCA with a concentration above 35 percent gives unpredictable results such as scarring. The book "Aesthetics and Cosmetic Surgery for Darker Skin Types" states that TCAs at concentrations of 50 percent have been discontinued because it puts dark-skinned patients at risk for hypopigmentation, hyperpigmentation, and scarring.

Jessner's solution is available in one strength only, but the depth to which it penetrates your skin can be increased by applying several layers of the solution during a Jessner peel.

Uses

A Jessner peel, according to the book "Aesthetics and Cosmetic Surgery for Darker Skin Types," is a superficial peel that is used to treat photoaging, age spots, acne, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma and freckles. Jessner peels should not be used on pregnant women or people who are allergic to any of its components.

TCA peels are used for superficial- or medium-depth peels and can treat moderate photoaging, actinic keratosis, blotchy hyperpigmentation, melasma, mild to medium rhytides and superficial acne scars. The best are TCA peels with low strength for excellent results. Some skin and TCA peels offer now downtime. 

Side Effects

According to "The Color Atlas of Chemical Peels," a Jessner peel has minimal side effects. However, its resorcinol and salicylic acid components have the potential to cause thyroid disease and salicylism, respectively. Some symptoms of salicylism are ringing in the ears, dizziness, confusion or disorientation. However, there have been no reported cases of salicylism, according to "Aesthetics and Cosmetic Surgery for Darker Skin Types."

Some complications of TCA peels are bacterial, viral or fungal infections, skin scarring, acne and change in your skin's texture.

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Going all organic is not the key. Why? I have since so many friends that only use organic products, and that have so much brown spots and wrinkles and now grey hair because they refuse to color their hair. Well! I believe in everything in moderation! I use organic and non-organic products and my skin is flawless. 

I love using skin peels and skin lightening products. I use organic face cleansers, organic creams, and serums. 

I also love using light therapy on my skin. There are some great tools that are a great addition to a good skincare routine. I see a great result on acne and wrinkles. 

People turn to LED therapy to fix skin problems such as acne or reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. ... The blue lights are used to improve acne and prevent breakouts by killing the acne-causing bacteria. Also, blue light penetrates deep to [treat] cystic acne

Step up your skincare regime with our selection of potent Serums available here at I'm Fabulous Cosmetics. Ultra-lightweight and fast absorbing, a serum is an ideal alternative or addition to creams or lotion, particularly for oily and combination skin types. They offer highly concentrated doses of essential anti-aging active ingredients including peptides, antioxidants, vitamins, and brighteners and work to leave skin feeling rejuvenated, soft and nourished.

Each individual skin type has different skin concerns, which is where a dedicated treatment comes in use. At I'm Fabulous Cosmetics, we have an extensive range of fabulous treatments which feature eye concentrated creams, age-defying treatments, skin resurfacing treatments and spot targeting gels to name a few. Whatever your skin concern, we have a treatment designed to improve the problem. 

Beauty Products With Toxic Ingredients

I was digging into the ingredients list of some skin care creams I had in my beauty cabinet and was horrified with the toxic ingredients in it. I have been cleaning up my cabinet now!

Let's start with thoses: 

MARIO BADESCU HYALURONIC EYE CREAM:

Aqua (Water, Eau), Glycerin, Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil, Huile Minérale), Cetearyl Alcohol, Olus (Vegetable Oil, Huile Végétale), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Petrolatum, Ceteareth-20, Tocopherol, Hyaluronic Acid, Euphrasia Officinalis Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Propylene Glycol, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, PVM/MA Copolymer, Polyquaternium-24, Sodium Chloride, Diazolidinyl Urea, Propylparaben, Methylparaben, CI 19140 (Yellow 5), CI 15985 (Yellow 6).

MARIO BADESCU WHITENING MASK:

Aqua (Water, Eau), Kaolin, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Starch, Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide, Dimethicone, Cera Microcristallina (Microcrystalline Wax, Cire Microcristalline), Sorbitol, Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil, Huile Minérale), Propylene Glycol, Cera Alba (Beeswax, Cire d’abeille), Cellulose Gum, Kojic Acid, Tocopherol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Rhizome/Root, Morus Nigra Root,Scutellaria Galericulata Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil,Polysorbate 80, Methylparaben, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Seed Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Sodium Chloride, Parfum (Fragrance), Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Benzoic Acid,Magnesium Aspartate, Panthenol, Potassium Asparate, Potassium Hydroxide, Propylparaben,Sarcosine.

I checked most of the products on their website and was horrified with the toxic ingredients they put in their products. I will certainly not use them on my face. 

These are the skincare ingredients to avoid, having been associated with cancer, neurotoxicity, immunotoxicity, hormone disruption and other conditions – all as a result of simply washing your hair, taking a shower, using deodorant, putting on makeup, misting with perfume doing any of the other rituals you perform every day.

Here a list of the most commonly found health-hazardous skincare ingredients to avoid. Use this list to make sure what you’re using is safe.

NEUROTOXICITY, HORMONE DISRUPTION, and BIRTH DEFECTS:

• BHA /BUTYLATED
• HYDROXYANISOLE
• CETEARETH GLYCOL
• COCAMIDE DEAL
• DIAZOLIDINYL UREA
• DIBUTYL PHTHALATE
• DMDM HYDANTOIN
• HYDROQUINONE
• IMIDAZOLIDINYL UREA
• METHYLISOTHIAZONLINONE
• MINERAL OIL

IMMUNOTOXICITY, CANCER, RESTRICTED:

• PARABEN
• (Methyl-, Propyl-, Butyl-,Ethyl-Paraben)
• PEG/POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL
• QUATERNIUM-15
• RESORCINOL, RESTRICTED IN CANADA & JAPAN
• SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE
• OXYBENZONE, RESTRICTED IN JAPAN
• TALC, RESTRICTED IN CANADA & EU
• TOLUENE, RESTRICTED IN EU
• TRICLOSAN, RESTRICTED IN CANADA & JAPAN
• TRIETHANOLAMINE, RESTRICTED IN EU