I bought the Biologique Recherche Lotion P50
on my last trip to Paris.
Lotion P50T is a new version of Lotion P50 that has a slightly higher pH level.
- Alpha-hydroxy acids: Specifically, lactic acid (derived from milk sugars) and citric acid (from lemons and oranges). The activity level of AHAs can vary, depending on how concentrated they are and the pH of the formula. In Biologique Recherche products, the molecules have a high acid ratio and low salt—which means they are both exfoliating and hydrating.
- Cider vinegar: Created from fermented apples, cider vinegar contains citric and malic acids. Thanks to its high tannin content, it also has purifying and astringent properties.
- Beta-hydroxy acid: Salicylic acid is naturally synthesized by certain plants, such as willow, and has an anti-inflammatory effect. Compared to AHAs, it penetrates the pores more easily in order to dissolve dead cells that may be causing obstructions.
- Poly-hydroxy acid: Gluconolactone is present in honey and fruit juices. It's a less penetrative exfoliant than AHAs, but also less irritating.
- Niacinamide: My favourite ingredient for fading skin pigmentation also has an anti-inflammatory effect that can help with acne.
- Horseradish, burdock and capsicum extracts: The horseradish has antibacterial properties and can help regulate sebum production. Capsicum is purifying and antiseptic, while burdock is moisturizing, healing and calming. Burdock also has the unique ability to balance combination skin, hydrating dry zones while purifying and regulating oily areas.
- Magnesium chloride: It has healing, antiseptic and sebum-regulating qualities that can hep with acne and eczema.
- Arnica extract: It has a soothing, protective and anti-inflammatory action.
- Natural moisturizing factors: These are ingredients, such as urea, lactates and sugars, that mimic the substances found in healthy skin.
THE FULL INGREDIENTS LIST FOR THE LOTION P50T:
Ingredients (Lotion P50T): Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Sodium Gluconate, Niacinamide, Propylene Glycol, Lactic Acid, Magnesium Chloride, Vinegar (Acetum), Citric Acid, Cochlearia Armoracia (Horseradish) Root Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract, Serine, Urea, Allantoin, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Salicylate, Sodium Benzoate, TEA-Lactate, Sorbitol.
Finally the Phenol was removed in the new lotion!
The phenol-free version of the original formula, targeted at normal to oily, thick skin. This info's not from the brand, but I understand it has a concentration of 12.85 percent AHA.
I followed this direction on how to use:
Step 1: If you're new to acids, start by dampening a cotton pad with a bit of water. The water will dilute the acid until you become accustomed to it. After the first week, you can use Lotion P50T on dry cotton pads.
Step 2: After washing your face, apply a few drops of Lotion P50T to the pad, and swipe it across your face, neck and décollatage.
Step 3: If you find it too strong, you can spray your skin with a face mist after a few moments, to neutralize the acid. Otherwise, simply leave it on your skin and continue with the rest of your regimen.
Do this twice a day, on bare skin after cleansing (and before moisturizing).
And don't forget to use sun protection, as AHAs increase sun sensitivity.
The first thing I noticed is that Lotion P50T feels less "tingly" on the skin. Even though it has the same exfoliating ingredients, it's unfortunately not as strong.
My skin was red for an hour following application and got really dry.
I like the ingredient but not a fan of UREA.
Some of the benefits you can expect (and that I have experienced myself):
- Brighter, more even skin tone
- Fewer acne breakouts
- Less oil production
- Gradual reduction in pore size
- Fading of pigmentation
- Softened appearance of fine lines
Where to buy it:
- One2One Studio in Toronto
- La Chambre des Dames in Montreal
- Little Spa in Vancouver
- Rescue Spa in USA
- Danydiop Cosmetics Europe
