Tuesday, May 20, 2014

HOW TO USE OVER-THE-COUNTER & PRESCRIPTION RETINOL PRODUCTS CORRECTLY?

What is Retinol?

Retinol is just another name for the entire vitamin A molecule. It is considered a cosmetic ingredient and found only in non-prescription products (mostly skin care). Retinol can be broken down to become other forms of vitamin A that are found in skin-care products or prescription products.
An example of a cosmetic form of retinol in skin care products is retinyl palmitate. Generally, pure retinol is considered more effective than retinol derivatives.
Prescription retinol products such as Renova and Retin-A contain the active ingredient tretinoin. Tretinoin is far more potent than retinol, but comes with a higher chance of irritation.

Why is Retinol Good for My Skin?

Whether in over-the-counter or prescription form, vitamin A in all its forms works as a cell-communicating ingredient. That means it can actually tell a skin cell to behave and even look like a more normal, younger cell. When you have sun damaged skin this communication is incredibly beneficial because sun damaged skin produces unhealthy, abnormal, and inflexible skin cells.
When dermatologists discuss "prescription retinol", they're referring to various forms of vitamin A that can only be used in prescription medications. Renova or Retin-A are the best known prescription forms of retinol containing the most "active" form called tretinoin (also known as all trans retinoic acid or retinoic acid). We know all of these terms can be confusing, but this list should help make things easier to understand:
  • Retin-A has a lightweight cream texture and is most often prescribed for acne.
  • Retin-A Micro has a gel texture with a matte finish that's best for oily, acne-prone skin
  • Renova has an emollient texture and is prescribed for wrinkles/sun damage.
  • Tri-Luma contains tretinoin along with prescription-strength hydroquinone and is prescribed for discolorations and melasma. Note: Because the steroid this contains may cause skin thinning with prolonged use, short-term usage of this product is advised.
  • AtralinAvitaAltinacRefissa, and Tretin-X are other prescription-only products with tretinoin.
  • Tretinoin is also available as a generic that is just as effective as brand name versions.
Regardless of brand or texture, tretinoin fights wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and breakouts. Which one to use should be based on your physician's recommendation and, to some extent, your personal preference.

Other Prescription Forms of Retinol (Retinoids)

Beyond the active ingredient tretinoin found in the prescription-only products mentioned above, the two other most common prescription forms of vitamin A/retinol are Differin, which contains adapalene, and Tazorac, which contain tazarotene.
Both of these are typically prescribed for acne. Neither has as much anti-wrinkle research as tretinoin but theoretically both should provide similar antiaging benefits. Generally, Differin is worth considering if you have acne but your skin cannot tolerate prescription retinoid products.

Is Prescription Retinol Better for Me?

Retinol in all its forms, over the counter or prescription-only, is excellent for preventing and improving signs of aging. But in order for the over-the-counter (cosmetic) version of the entire vitamin A/retinol molecule to be effective it must break down into the active form (tretinoin) found in prescription vitamin A products. All of the retinol products I'm Fabulous® Team recommends are formulated to do just that.
Keep these facts in mind to help you determine which form is best for your needs:
  • Prescription-strength forms of retinol are "stronger" and work faster. Cosmetic retinol takes longer to have an effect but in the long run it works the same.
  • Prescription-strength forms of vitamin A/retinol (tretinoin) present a greater a risk of causing irritation. For some people the irritation never goes away and they can't use it.
  • Cosmetic retinol has a far lower risk of causing irritation but because it is still breaking down in your skin to become the active prescription form (tretinoin) it can also be irritating.
  • It takes experimenting to see which frequency of application works best for you; many find that using retinol 2–3 times per week works great while others can use it every day.

Can I Use AHA or BHA if I'm Using a Prescription or Cosmetic Retinol Product?

A common misperception about retinol is that it exfoliates your skin. Vitamin A/retinol in any of its forms does not do the same thing as AHAs or BHA. AHAs and BHA exfoliate the surface layers of dead built-up skin, improving sun damaged or genetically thickened skin cells.
Whether over-the-counter or prescription form, retinol is a cell-communicating ingredient that "tells" skin cells to make healthier, younger cells and can enhance the production of new skin cells. It is not an exfoliant.
Where it gets confusing is because retinol in both over-the-counter and prescription products can cause flaking. Because of this side effect, people assume it is also exfoliating their skin. Flaking skin is not exfoliation. AHAs and BHA help skin do what it should be doing naturally, and naturally you don't see your healthy skin cells shed. Instead, you just see a smooth, renewed skin surface and a healthy glow.
For the best anti-aging, anti-wrinkle benefit it is ideal to use both an exfoliant and a vitamin A/retinol product. PS: If you've heard that you can't use retinol with vitamin C (or AHA & BHA exfoliants) due to claims the ingredients deactivate one another, not to worry, this isn't accurate in the least. 

Recommended Retinol Products

This organic retinol cream is great! This organic, kosher and vegan formulation prevent the skin from flaking or getting to dry. Your skin get the same effect without the unpleasant dryness. 



How to Use Your Prescription Retinol (Retinoid) Product

Here is how to use a prescription retinol product (with the active ingredient *tretinoin) with your daily skin-care routine:
  1. Cleanse, tone, and exfoliate your skin with your AHA or BHA product as usual.
  2. Next, apply the Retinol cream.
  3. If you're using a skin lightening product too, apply it after the prescription retinoid.
  4. Proceed with your moisturizer and/or serum, which can also be applied around your eyes.

More Tips:
  • To help your skin get used to prescription-strength retinol, apply every other day, always at night (sunlight deactivates the active ingredient).
  • If your skin tolerates it you can then gradually move up to once daily application, but always at night.
  • Keep in mind that more is not better; only a pea-sized dab is needed for your entire face!
  • It is OK to apply tretinoin (the main prescription retinoid) at the same time as benzoyl peroxide.

What Else You Need to Know:

  • Retinol products may be applied underneath the eye, but not on the eyelids or underbrow area.
  • It is OK to use an over-the-counter retinol product with a prescription retinol product. Which one to apply first is up to you.
  • If you notice signs of irritation (flaking, redness, sensitivity) do not double up on retinol products and/or decrease frequency of application.
Important note: whether you choose an over-the-counter or prescription retinol product, daily use of a well formulated sunscreen rated SPF 15 or greater is a must! Even the most effective, research-proven anti aging ingredients won't work like you want them to if you're not diligent about sun protection. After all, sun damage created most of what you're using anti aging products to improve!
For best results, any form of vitamin A/retinol should be used with other anti-aging products containing rejuvenating ingredients such as antioxidants, skin-repairing ingredients, and different cell-communicating ingredients such as niacinamide. Despite retinol's superstar status, treating signs of aging is far more complex than any one ingredient can address!
Sources for the information above: Dermatologic Surgery, June 2010, pages 829–840; Journal of Cellular Physiology, August 2009, pages 427–439; Journal of Southern Medical University, February 2009, pages 217–219; Clinics in Dermatology, November-December 2008, pages 633–635; Acta Poloniae Pharmaceutica, January–February 2008, pages 85–91; Clinical Interventions in Aging, Volume 1, Issue 4, 2006, pages 327–348; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2006, Epublication; Drugs, Volume 65, Issue 8, 2005, pages 1,061–1,072; British Journal of Dermatology, September 1998, page 8; and Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, March 1997, pages S27–S36.

Wednesday, May 14, 2014

The World's Most Luxurious Organic Skin Care Treatments


CROW'S FEET

I'm Fabulous Biophotonic Crow's feet wrinkle treatment, is absolutely amazing. A thick cream, loaded with organic Aloe, Alpha Lipoic and Alpha Hydroxy acids, Grapeseed Oil, Vitamins E and C and many other amazing wrinkles fighter.

Crow’s feet — even the name of those tell-tale wrinkles at the side of our eyes is ugly, although the more optimistic of us like to refer to them as ‘laughter lines’.
They appear when the skin loses collagen and hyaluronic acid, but one thing’s for sure — those of us who have them don’t find them funny.

Tiny lines around the corner of the eyes, known as crow’s-feet, can crop up as early as during your 20s. While these little lines can be troublesome, the good news is they are preventable and correctable.
All those years of squinting and smiling eventually start to catch up with your face. “Chronically using those muscles— coupled with a loss of elasticity—causes small wrinkles to appear in the outer corners of the eyes,” says Los Angeles dermatologist Annie Chiu, MD. The best way to prevent them? Load up on a good daily sunscreen and don a pair of big, protective sunglasses to prevent aging eyes.
Softening crow’s-feet with the right ingredients makes them look less obvious. Skin-care products that utilize anti-line and anti-wrinkle ingredients can help diffuse the look of lines around the eyes. 

UNDER - EYE BAGS

I'm Fabulous® Eye bright intensive serum, is loaded with plant stem cells, botanically derived Hyaluronic Acid Spheres to fiber, collagen boosting and ultra skin firming and wrinkle repairing ingredient and fiber and cellular rebuilding Amino Acids. Using the best peptides on the anti-aging markets for 2014! 

This serum will blow your mind!

Matrikines anti-wrinkle complex which helps: - reverse the chronological ageing as attested by the regulation of senescence markers. Ageing skin tends to behave like young skin. - reduce the cutaneous photo damage by restructuring the fragile network of the papillary dermis.

Palmitoyl Triepeptide-3
This peptide, consisting of three amino acids, promotes collagen synthesis by mimicking the skin's natural processes. It is seen as an alternative to a collagen injection as it boosts the connective tissue growth factor necessary to produce collagen. Clinical studies have shown it can reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve the skin's firmness and moisture level. 

EyeBright
Formulated with a trio of patented multi-peptides that yield true results, the active ingredients in EyeBright are clinically proven to reduce dark circles and under eye puffiness, and diminish the depth and appearance of deep wrinkles.

HYPERPIGMENTATION

I'm Fabulous® Super white bio serum, in fact penetrate fully into the dermal layer, and natural skin brighteners that have been clinically proven to be more effective than hydroquinone restore damaged cells to their more youthful integrity for a younger more even toned complexion. Safe for daily use and for pregnant women.
A super fast, intensive, and safe approach to skin brightening and lightening.  Formulated to penetrate deep into the skin to lighten skin discoloration and pigmentation problems. Skin tone balancer, brightens skin, evens out skin tone, Helps to lighten dark spots left over from acne.  Progressively and uniformly moisturize, brighten and condition your skin.  An exceptional leave-on AHA product that enhances the penetration of the Brightening Creme (rapid results) as well as promotes evening of the complexion.

NASOLABIAL FOLDS



I'm Fabulous Powerful Volumizing Serum & Skin Filler is a incredible serum that increases the appearance of facial volume and visibly plumps trouble zones – especially furrow lines, nasal labial creases and crow’s feet. Skin appears firmer, plump, ultra smooth, hydrated and vibrant!

- Helps plump and firm skin’s appearance after subtle facial volume loss.
- Helps plump the appearance of furrow lines, nasal labial creases and crow’s feet.
- Contains antioxidants to fight free radicals and help shield against pollution and skin stressors.
- Contains a Brightening Complex to help even skin tone.
- Contains 2.5 % Retinol to fight wrinkles
- Contains Snap-8 a powerful peptides and wrinkles relaxer a safer, cheaper, and milder alternative to Botulinum Toxin.
- Contains Snake Peptide a a synthetic tripeptide that mimics the effect of Waglerin 1, found in the venom of the Temple Viper. The activity of snake peptide reduces the contraction frequency of muscle cells on the face, thereby decreasing the appearance of expression lines. In vivo testing showed an impressive reduction of over 50% in wrinkle size after 28 days.

Can I Use Retin-A With Vitamin C?

It is perfectly safe to use both Retin A (tretinoin) or any other vitamin A acid formulation in conjuction with vitamin C. 


The trick is in the timing of the applications, and most of us agree that vitamin C, an effective antioxidant, is best when applied in the morning, Antioxidants quench or neutralize free radicals- those pesky unstable molecules that trigger the breakdown of collagen and elastin, reuskting in aging of the skin, Because ultraviolet radiation - UVA and UVB rays- are responsible for about 90% of the free radicals produced in our body, it makes sense to use vitamin C and other antioxidants during the day, when we are exposed to UVA and UVB rays. 


Applying vitamin C and Retin A / vitamin A acid creams together can irritate the skin, so these are best applied at separate times to minimize the potential for skin irritation. In summary, using vitamin C during the day will protect the skin from free radicals and Retin-A or the new trend Retinol 2.5% (organic and kosher) applied at night will encourage skin renewal and repair. Dr Koleck, MD loves to uses an organic Retinol 2.5% cream instead of Retin-A, It is less irritatting to the skin and hydrate the wrinkles and fines lines while it treat the skin and boost collagen. We buy all our organic products from I'm Fabulous Cosmetics, A USA based skin care company.

As a rule, vitamin A derived products are unstable when exposed to UV rays (although adequate sunscreen use should help reduce this). 

As general guideline to skin care, think prevent and protect for day products and repair and renew for night products.

Best way to smooth out wrinkles fast!


Light Peels - alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids
                  Good for:  Lightly refreshing the skin
                  You’ll notice:  Subtly smoother, more evenly toned skin and less blemishes

Medium Peels- trichloroacetic acid (TCA)
                  Good for: Correcting moderate wrinkles, lines and sun damage
                  You’ll notice: Significantly smoother skin that’s more even in tone with fewer lines and spots

Deep Peels - phenol acid
                  Good for: Extreme resurfacing
                  You’ll notice: Drastically smoother skin sans wrinkles and pigmentation
Understanding the Strengths: Just like how ingredients, such as retinoids and vitamin C, are available in different strengths, so are the peeling agents used in chemical peels.

On the Low End: Each acid ranges in strength—single digits and 10 percent concentrations are on the more gentle side; 20 to 70 rank on the higher end.

Stronger Peels Offer an Advantage: The higher the percentage of the acid used in a chemical peel, the more damage reversal it can do for your skin.
How deep a peel can go: Light peels reach just the epidermis, the outermost layer of the skin to lighten discoloration, transform texture and fight breakouts

Medium strength peels work on the middle dermis or the layer of skin between the epidermis and the dermis for more serious resurfacing.

Deep peels get down to the dermis, the lowest layers of the skin, to dramatically soften lines and wrinkles
Dr Sikat, MD, based in Monaco, swear by the Bio Identical Hyaluronic Protein serum for post peel.
In my practice we use it for post skin peel and have the patients take a bottle with them to use at home for post peel treatment.


Bio Identical compounding is a brand new technology where the topical compound can be metabolized by the skin tissue rather then creating chemical dependency. The Bio Identical Hyaluronic Protein serum  is for topical use, but can be used in Mesotherapy treatments which is a sub-dermal application of distributing the protein below the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the epidermis)


Created with low molecular weight for super deeper penetration!




Lines and Wrinkles start to appear in the mid 20's 

It's all depends on a series of factors for examples diet, environmental exposure, hydration, smoking, drinking, SPF, vitamin C usage, etc. 

The best one can do is prevent before problems become too prominent and you will need professional intervention - I normally recommend all patients to start with a Vitamin C serum and form of Retin-a treatment . 

Incorporate DAILY SPF Usage and gradually adding more products as necessary - Let us not forget sensitive areas like the eyes and neck - 

The more you do now the less you will have to do later.

 If theres more severe damage, there are many ways to treat and nothing like a good chemical peel to get things started!